#Ralle reamp clip metroamp forum how to#

The others are capable of more 'distortion' which has to be backed off anyway to record or mic. I DO EVERY VERSION IF THATS WHAT THEY WANT BUT TO 'MY EARS, the Cameron version was the best. The amp i am refering to is based off the original atomica that was found to have all the vh vibe. Still the gauges refuse to work, and I am not getting a clean output.There are many variations of the jose mod.įriedman does THE EXTRA 12AX7 VERSION,TRACE DOES THE MICK MARS VERSION which is similar to the Friedman. Update: I got the new limiter installed today, but it didn't solve the problem. Is it possible I have a bad gauge? Or am I testing it incorrectly? Tried using the same 100 Ohm resistor trick (removed the blue wire and rand the input terminal to ground), but there was 0 movement on the gauge. (I forgot to measure the resistance to see if the wire was grounded out somewhere.)

I do not see a separate ground wire on the sending unit, so I'm going to assume that it's good. I saw the gauge increase, and then removed the resistor and it went back to 0. Used a 100 Ohm resistor to tie the input to ground. Resistance from wire to ground was infinite. Wire for sending unit did not have a short to ground. Voltage measured by DMM at wire for sending unit (disconnected) was 0 Volts. Average resistance at running temp was about 32-37 Ohms Lowest resistance measured was roughly 27 Ohms. Responds to changes in temperature by lowering its own resistance. Here are the results of my troubleshooting: So for now the temperature sending unit and fuel level sending unit are still not working. If any of you have any personal experience with that, I welcome it. I did get it working after posting that thread, but I still am hesitant to believe that I have it optimally wired. I started Another Thread regarding the oil pressure sending unit. I also need to pull the radiator core, so taking the entire dash out would be acceptable and preferable.Īfter fiddling around some more and doing more troubleshooting, I've figured out that the gauges are functional, and the issue is most likely open circuits/broken wires. I can't find what is holding this thing together.

#Ralle reamp clip metroamp forum how to#

Does anyone know how to get this damn dashboard out? It would be infinitely easier for me to troubleshoot on the workbench rather than having to contort myself under the dash and seat all the time. Everything is wires and plugs and terminals and screws.Īs far as I know, the limiter is okay, but there is definitely something else screwing up the circuit and causing it to not work properly. As you can see in the pictures I included earlier, I do not have a PCB cluster. In regards to the physical nature of the regulator, I can confirm that this new one I received is the correct fit. By that do you mean the round, silver thing also connected to the ignition terminal on the right? (Middle connection) Could that be the problem? I'm not seeing 12V on the input side, which is weird, though this could be due to the internal circuitry or some sort of shunt. If I put my DMM on it, I see the voltage bounce around between 0 and ~2V DC (depending on the terminal). I can see on the limiter that the red LED on it is blinking on and off. Still the gauges refuse to work, and I am not getting a clean output. Click to expand.Update: I got the new limiter installed today, but it didn't solve the problem.